The small town of Ollantaytambo is cute, quiescent, and the food scene is more personalized, cheaper (and delicious) than the 100+ restaurants in Agua Caliente that seemed to bore the same dishes and flavours- and also- every single restaurant serves pizza with a clay oven. Could it be some person years ago started a clay oven in their restaurant that got mighty popular, and eventually decided to sell their clay oven skills to the whole town?
If you are like me, stuck in Agua Caliente for a meal or two, sneak into the alleyway that leads up to Indio Feliz for a super affordable $50 soles set menu: a fun classic spin of French-Peruvian food, with a treehouse ambiance.
In Ollantaytambo, the eco-friendly El Albergue Boutique Hotel, right on the railway is a delightful (affordable) quiet oasis with beautiful grounds. It has everything a person wants after those hard trekking days: an adjacent train-station cafe that serves a mean brownie and beautiful coffees, complimentary spread of breakfast with eggs to your liking, the open kitchen that cooks up gourmet dinner for a decent price, and a to-go lunch box ($8) that happily serves 2. Another great find in town is Puma Ruca. The prices and the food are unreal. We ate like kings: butternut soup, some fine crispy pizza, hearty juicy chunks of pollo salteado, a big portion of soft crepe-like-burrito dish, and some beers- all about $28.